Building a Common Language With Your Dog
Practical training methods that respect your dog’s intelligence and your time. No philosophies, no jargon, just what works.
The Point of All This
Training gives you and your dog a way to communicate across species. You speak English. They speak canine body language. Commands are the bridge.
At our home in Longmont, we do this work because it genuinely makes us happy. There is something deeply satisfying about watching a dog figure out what you are asking, seeing that lightbulb moment, watching families work together with their animals. It is fun for kids. It creates structure in a relationship between two completely different kinds of beings. It turns frustration into cooperation.
The methods here are exactly what we use with our own dogs and with every dog that stays with us. Nothing theoretical. Everything tested.
Master these and you can handle ninety percent of daily life with your dog. They are listed in the order we typically teach them.
Get their attention
Say their name in a neutral, happy tone. Not excited, not demanding. Just clear.
Mark the moment
The instant they turn to look at you, say “yes” or click your clicker. Timing matters here. You are marking the exact behavior you want.
Reward immediately
Deliver the treat within one second. High value for the first week. Chicken, hot dog, cheese. Something worth their effort.
Add distance and distraction
Once they are solid in the kitchen, practice in the yard. Then on a walk. Then at the park. Generalization is key.
Lure the position
Hold a treat right at their nose so they can smell it but not eat it. Slowly arc your hand back over their head toward their tail.
Let physics work
As their nose follows the treat up and back, their bottom naturally lowers to the ground. Do not push their hips down. Let gravity do it.
Mark and reward
The moment their bottom touches the floor, say “yes” and give the treat. Timing is everything.
Add the cue
After ten successful repetitions, say “sit” right before you lure. Eventually the word predicts the action, and you can fade the lure.
Start from sit
It is much easier to teach down from sit than from standing. Get them sitting first.
Lure down and out
Put the treat at their nose, lower straight down to the ground between their front paws, then slowly pull it forward along the floor away from them.
Follow through
To reach the treat moving away, they will extend their front legs and lower their body. The moment elbows hit the ground, mark and treat.
Build duration
Once they understand the position, wait two seconds before marking. Then five. Then ten. Duration is harder than the position itself.
Position first
Ask for sit or down. They must understand the position before adding stay.
Visual cue plus verbal
Say “stay” once. Show your open palm. Take half a step back. Return immediately. Mark and treat.
Release word matters
Always use a release word like “free” or “okay” to end the stay. Otherwise they learn to break whenever they feel like it.
Three Ds separately
Build duration (time) first. Then distance (how far you walk). Then distraction (toys, food, other dogs). Never add two new challenges at once.
Start inside on leash
Five foot leash. Let them sniff. Say “come” in a happy, inviting tone. Back up a few steps. The movement draws them.
Reel if needed
If they do not move toward you, gently reel them in with the leash. Do not drag. Just guide.
Party at arrival
When they reach you, jackpot. Multiple treats, physical praise, genuine excitement. Coming to you must be the best thing that happens all day.
The golden rule
Never call your dog to do something unpleasant. If you need to crate them, go get them. If you need to end play, go to them. “Come” must always predict good things.
Closed fist method
Put a treat in your closed fist. Present it at their nose level. Let them sniff, lick, paw. Wait them out.
Mark the disengagement
Eventually they will pull back or look away. The instant they stop trying to get the treat, say “yes.”
Reward from the other hand
Give them a different treat from your other hand. Never give the thing they were leaving. They learn that leaving the first thing gets them something better.
Build difficulty
Move from closed fist to open hand with treat visible. Then to treat on floor under your foot. Then to treat on floor while you stand nearby. Then to dropped food while walking.
Stand close to the bed
Have a treat ready. Lure them toward the bed with the treat at their nose.
All four paws on
Guide them until all four feet are on the bed. Mark and treat immediately.
Add duration quickly
Once they understand going to the bed, start waiting two seconds before treating. Then five. Then asking for a down on the bed.
Send from distance
Once they are solid, stand five feet away and point. Then ten feet. Eventually you can send them to place from across the room.
The Furbaby Haven Method
Lure
Use food to guide the dog into position. No physical manipulation. Let them choose to follow.
Mark
Say “yes” or click at the exact moment they achieve the position. Precision matters.
Reward
Deliver treat within one second. High value food for new skills. Variable rewards for known skills.
Release
Use “free” or “okay” to end the behavior. Gives the dog permission to move. Creates clear boundaries.
Repeat
Five repetitions per session. Three to five sessions per day. Short and frequent beats long and rare.
Fade
After ten successes, use an empty hand signal. Then intermittent treats. Then variable rewards.
When Things Go Wrong
Dogs do not fail training. The training fails the dog. If your dog is not getting it, look at these common culprits.
They seem confused
You are probably moving too fast. Go back to the last step where they were successful. Build from there. Break it into smaller pieces.
They do it at home but not outside
This is normal. Dogs do not generalize well. You need to reteach the skill in every new environment. Start from step one in each new location.
They did it yesterday but not today
Dogs have bad days too. They might be tired, distracted, or not feeling well. End the session. Try again tomorrow.
They only do it when they see treats
You are stuck in the lure phase. Start using an empty hand. Mark and reward from your pocket or a treat pouch they cannot see.
Work With Us in Person
If you would like hands-on guidance, we offer complimentary behavioral assessments and customized training plans when you book a day of daycare. Come spend the day with us in Longmont. Meet the family. See how we live with and train our own dogs.
Schedule a Day of DaycareAssessment and training plan included with your dog’s stay.
